May 12 — 22 · one backpack, no plan
The hills are a rumor until you climb them. We got lost twice before breakfast and stopped minding by the second time — every wrong turn in Alfama ends at a viewpoint or a bakery.
Tram 28 rattled past our table close enough to touch. Nobody flinched but us.
Pastéis de nata count: six. Each. Before noon.
A palace the color of a sunrise, sitting in a cloud. The fog burned off at exactly the moment we reached the terrace, which felt arranged.
Porto is Lisbon's older sibling who reads more and talks less. We drank vinho verde on the Ribeira and watched the rabelos swing on their moorings until the bridge lights came on.
We saved the ocean for last. Three days of cliffs and salt and doing absolutely nothing, professionally.
Ten days, four cities, one rule: always order the second coffee.
Already planning the way back.